the Bonanza (H35-V35) Main Gear IPC Extract
the Bonanza (H35-V35) Nose Gear IPC Extract
Want to take your landing gear struts from this:
Contact me and, under IA
supervision, I will rebuild your nose strut trunion or main strut body (the top
piece only - not the chromed barrel portion with the axle) and give it a scuff
and paint spiff up job for $500 plus shipping back to you. Proceeds from these
efforts support the CSOBeech site and compensate me and my IA for our time. The
rebuild will include the following new parts:
Inner barrel o-ring (Original spec nitrile rubber or modern
flurosilicone - your choice)
Top shaft o-ring (Original spec nitrile rubber or modern
flurosilicone - your choice)
Boss Gasket under valve body
High pressure Schrader valve
Grease Zerk Fittings & Covers
If you need one or both of the big bronze bushings PN: 35-820115
in the trunion body replaced, add $150 per bushing to have that done. The
bushing is #5A
the Bonanza (H35-V35) and part #47
HERE in the Baron
Nose Gear IPC Extract.
See my complete article in ABS Magazine February 2015 on my Main
Gear Strut rebuild
Are your struts on their last "legs"? Tired of
servicing them with nitrogen and 5606?
Dr. Dave Rogers
offers this pirep on his A-36, E33A strut repair/rebuild:
"A-36 nose gear strut and the left main gear strut on the E33A repaired by
Eric Massey at Safe Flight (410-643-7728) in Stevensville, MD (W29). He
did a good job at a reasonable price."
DIY Nose Gear Strut
Servicing Tips from Beech Expert Paul M.
1). Be sure you check the end play on the strut ass'y where it bolts to the
airframe. Often those shims are left out or its never checked after years of
service. I think max play is .015 (check the MM to be sure) and you use up to
two 100951S016YP washers per side to shim the play out of it.
2). Replace the laminated shim that goes under the top "cap", peeling
each layer off until it fits freely. See MM. Those shims don't last that long
and should be replaced and the strut/top cap play eliminated whenever the strut
3). If the felt pad is in good shape, there is no need to replace it. If you do
replace it, you may need to trim it. Also, do not "over-soak" it in
SAE 10 oil or it will swell up so much you'll never get the piston into the
4). Get a hose that will fit over the Schrader valve threads snug enough, and
dip the other end into a gallon jug half-full of 5606 for the servicing part.
That's really the best and quickest way to service a newly OH'd (dry) strut.
Have your assistant hold the jug while you actuate the strut slowly, stop to stop,
until its sufficiently filled. Sufficiently filled on the later model nose gear
is the piston fully compressed to the stop after 3-5 full travels of the strut.
Earlier models called for compressing the strut to within a 1/2 or 1/4 in. of
fully compressed before calling it good, IIRC. Remove the hose while the strut
is compressed. Then you can relax. Put the valve core back in and put shop air*
in the strut until you can get the plane on the ground and service it the rest
of the way with nitrogen.
5). Make sure you don't accidently bolt the steering "collar" to the
strut with the zerk on it pointing up, as you won't be able to grease it. It can
swivel 180 degrees while its disassembled without you noticing it. Seems like
I've seen that a lot lately on some new customer's airplanes. Make sure that
steering stop "cone" rolls freely on the end of that bolt, too.
*CSOB1 note: Some "shop air" can be laden with
moisture (which can corrode the insides of the strut), so be careful if you
choose shop air.
Here is another piece of guidance for nose strut rebuilding from Beech Talker
plane on jacks, remove the nose gear. When you disconnect the steering yoke,
careful for the tiny spacing bushings that fall out, get lost. These are very
important. Carefully bleed pressure from the Schrader valve, remove the valve,
replace the O ring under it.
Drain 5606 fluid. Remove tire and wheel from axle. Remove lock ring at top.
Disconnect NG torque knee. Be systematic in disassembly, carefully store parts
to help you with reassembly. When cylinder is open reach in lower portion and
remove oil soaked felt, and place in solvent to clean. Have your new O rings
(Performance Aero) ready, and greased with #5. Make yourself an O ring pick
from a brazing rod, sharpened on the ends. Bend one end at a 45 degree angle,
the other about 120 degrees. Shine your light into the tube, locate the old O
ring, stab it with your pick, and work it out of the groove. Be prepared with
two 3/4" dowels, about 2' long. Place the new O ring on one dowel, insert into
tube, from the other end, insert other dowel. Now you can work the new O ring
into the groove, and push it fully into place.
examine scraper, install other easy O ring, wash the felt and re oil it. Your
maintenance manual will give you wear allowances for you to measure with a
micrometer. If you have no excessive wear, you can reassemble. Reinstall, add
new 5606 to a collapsed strut, work it up and down for bubble removal, check
level to full with a 1/4" block at bottom. New valve core, inflate with
nitrogen to about 125 lbs, adjust later to proper height as shown on your
strut, now owned by Lawson Barber, does this work exclusively.
559-908-2957 You should have a licensed IA check your work, and sign it off,
if you do it yourself. Not something to be dismissed lightly.
are in there, check the magnesium strut delta for corrosion. Water gets into
the vents in the front, and bimetal action takes place. Some of those parts
are dissolved like an Alka Seltzer tablet. Prevent that by making a curved
aluminum cover for the vents in front. ABS has details.
Another popular strut repair/rebuilding source is Delta Strut, the company
previously owned by Arky Fulk.
Here is Jamey C.'s pirep on them:
Delta Strut (formerly Arky's operation to my knowledge) is now owned by
Lawson Barber (former owner of Barber Aviation) in Madera, CA. He's
located in the hangar next to Barber Aviation (now owned by Chris Tharp).
Apparently Arky retired and Lawson needed a business to pseudo-retire to that
didn't involve standing on his head under instrument panels, laying on cold
concrete floors, etc.
If you aren't familiar with Lawson as an A&P he's a very Beech-savvy guy and
a very nice/fair individual who would be more than happy to help with your strut
issues. I don't know Delta Strut's contact info in Madera but call Judy at
Barber (559) 675-0183) and she'll get you in touch with Lawson.
NEWS FLASH 6/3/2015: The location of Lawson Barber's operation (formerly
Delta Strut) is now
Chandler/Fresno Airport and phone contact info is below.
On the field at Chandler airport, Fresno, Ca.
559-441-1316 (Land Line)
Be careful, if you break this snap ring that lives on the end of the shock
tube, it is rumored to be about $200 from Beech.
Here is a find by BeechTalker John K. Can you tell the difference between
these two PN: 504270 strut seal parts? I didn't think so!
The one on the left is a nose strut shaft seal from Beechcraft at >$20 and the one on the
right is sourced
at $9 or
HERE for ~$6.50!
The main strut shaft seal is PN: 504271 and is available
HERE for ~$10
Need high pressure valve parts? Check these folks out:
HERE for a catalog of Standard & Custom High Pressure Fill Valves
Here are some pictures (click on them to get full size) of the valve core
body area and why you really should use the specified BOSS gasket PN: MS28778-5
for the sealing of the valve core body to the top strut tube. I found crush
washers in use on a pair of serviceable main struts I was refurbishing to
replace my 50 year old main gear legs. It is much simpler if you can, to find a
younger pair of "legs" and refurb them and insert them at annual without
removing the supporting structure from the airframe. Also less chance of gear
The top tube O-ring for the later model Bonanza & Baron Struts in black
nitrile rubber is MS28775-328, in flurosilicone blue it is M25988/1-328. The
barrel center o-ring in black nitrile rubber is MS28775-138, in flurosilicone
blue it is M25988/1-138.
Below is the nose gear valve core body showing that it too uses PN: 28778-5
boss gasket for sealing.
Over many years or in fact decades, these gaskets are prone to wear and can
be the source of frustrating leaks. So if/when you tackle this job, do it right
and refurb all the problem areas so you can get another 40-50 years out of them!
See the Bonanza 33 Series Landing Gear IPC
Here is a picture of the parts list for a Baron 55 main strut rebuild.
Caveat: Check your parts catalog to be sure this works for
your SN airframe!
Here are pictures of Nose and Main strut seal repair kits that have been seen
on eBay. Do your research in your parts catalog to be sure you get the proper
pieces for your specific SN!
Main Strut Kit
Nose Strut Kit
Got Leaking struts? Well here is a pirep from Debonair Owner and Beech parts
maven Kevin O.:
"When I bought my Deb15 years ago , both my main gear were leaking. I used a
mixture of 50/50 trans stop leak and 5606 just to get me to the next annual.
WELL--never did leak again. I have to add a little nitrogen about once a
year---and a little fluid about every 3 to 4 years. My struts have never been rebuilt ( 1960 Debonair)
I do have a new set of mains still in the wood beech crate that were built in
1961---when the ones on my plane start giving me trouble--will put new seals in the new
set and put them on.
Transmission stop leak is less than $5.00 a bottle---Granville
Strut Seal is 5-6X$! Same functionality--both soften the seals and cause them to swell just a little."
Here is a picture of a typical o-ring failure that causes the strut to
deflate or lose fluid. On the left you can see the deformed edge, on the right a