Because Owning And Flying Your Beechcraft Can Be Done Safely AND For Less Money!
  My Favorite CSOB Beechcraft Cleaning & Waxing Secrets

 

 

 

For the last five years I have cleaned my Baron quite simply, with just water from a garden hose and a hand chamois cloth dry. No big expensive pressure washers, no exotic soaps and California Blade brushes or Mr. Clean water spot eliminator systems. Your methods may vary, however, I've been very pleased with my simple CSOB approach.

 

HERE is a window and leading edge cleaning article I wrote for ABS Magazine in September 2013.

 

I will hand apply and hand buff the entire airplane once or sometimes twice per year using either of the above Marine Quality liquid waxes.

 


 

Check these folks out for aircraft touch up paints

 

 

Here is their classic Matterhorn White Kit

 

 

 

Here are some guidelines from Aero Touchups on how to use their kits that were given to a CSOBeech visitor and passed along to me in a pirep:

 

If its a small bare aluminum area it would be best to clean ( MEK, lacquer thinner etc. ) then lightly abrade the area (scothbrite, sandpaper or similar )and use alodine and a corrosion resistant primer for best protection. Then the top coat may be applied. If its just a chip down to the primer you can just apply the paint. Even though its only 2 ounces of material it does not have to be mixed all at ounce. The mix ratio is 3 parts paint to 1 part hardener and can be mixed drops at a time. We have pipettes ( disposable droppers ) for this purpose. Check out the links below. Ounce opened the paint or primer will last several months or longer if sealed tight and kept refrigerated.

 


 

Another wax/polishing product that comes highly recommended by fellow CSOBer Steven M., is Protect All, an easy to apply spray liquid. Reportedly available in 14oz bottles for about $10 at Wal-Mart.

 

 

See their aircraft testimonials HERE

 


 

Another favorite among Beechcraft owners is REJEX. Available from SkyGeek, Aircraft Spruce and others for ~$20 for a 16oz bottle. Reported to go on very easy and polish up easy as well and lasts (as reported by some) up to about 9 months.

 

Brought to you by the same fine folks who produce Corrosion X.

 

 


 

Some folks prefer to use an electric buffer such as this Cyclo. I have borrowed my mechanic's Cyclo a couple of times and it is a very nice machine and does a nice job, however, I just prefer the nice workout and satisfaction of doing the job by hand.

 

 

Cyclo Polishers generally sell for ~ $300, so that's why this CSOB does not have one!

 

Search for a Cyclo Polisher CSOB deal on EBay HERE

 


 

Another orbital polisher that is lower cost than the Cyclo and is reported by Beech owner Bob N. to give good results is the Porter Cable 7424 (click for specs), a 6" variable speed polisher.

 

Available at Amazon (click image above) for ~$118. Here are Bob's thoughts on the 7424:

 

A Porter Cable 7424 DA Polisher is less expensive, more versatle, and you can't hurt the finish with it. Do not get an orbital polisher. You can use the 7424 both to clean away the oxidized paint, and to apply wax. Get some yellow, orange, and white foam pads for it.

 

I recommend Meguiar's A3016 Deep Crystal Cleaner, topped with either Collinite #845 Insulator Wax (a pure carnuba wax) or Rejex (by Corrosion-X). If you keep your airplane hangared, Nu-Finish will deliver an unbeatable shine, but it won't last as long as Rejex or Insulator Wax if kept outside. Get a gallon of Wash-Wax-All blue to use for touchups, removing bugs, and keeping the windows clean.

 

Thanks Bob!

 


 

 

Spinner Magic

 

Here's a pirep from Kent F. of OK on some great results he achieved on some spinners with California Custom products:

 

I tried the California Custom stuff to polish some spinners and it works as advertised

 

A couple of spinners hadn't been touched in 3-4 years except for washing. I used the de-oxidizer then buffed with the polish. The de-oxidizer is the key. After the black residue came up, while polishing. I used a third rag with corn starch (flour works just as good) and the shine glowed clean. Didn't have to rub hard.

 

It took less than ten minutes a spinner with rather great results. It took just small part of bottle. Probably be able to do 10-15 more spinners.

 

        

 

Spinner - Before

 

Spinner - After

 

Kent also adds the following:

 

The acid etch goes on by a small cloth wet. You can immediately start applying the polish. The directions say rub or buff "until you do not feel friction".
It does not need hard rubbing.

Both, the etch and the polish are more liquid than paste.

But as you buff, Alike as with any polish, the old surface turns into a black gummy residue. You can keep using clean clothes, but it is much faster to sprinkle starch or flour over the gum as you buff.
I guess the starch particles adhere to the residue and acts as a medium to remove it easier.

I found a few spots needed a 2nd touch and a little dab of polish fixed it.

Really, I've tried several methods and other creams and watched the detail guys use their powered buffers and even they took a lot of time.

The etch is the trick. And only 5-10 minutes.

Both bottles have enough quantity to do 10-15 spinners.

p.s. definitely use gloves.. Its a dirty deal of smear polishing, and to me the stage one smells like a bit of hydrofluoric acid. Bad stuff.
It smells like the same etch air-conditioning guys use to clean condensers.
Latex gloves worked fine and didn't melt around my fingers


 

 

Got Spinner Dings? Check out THIS pirep.

 

 


 

Check this polish job that Bonanza owner John R. of Charlotte got from a local source.

 

 

Here is the polishing source info John reports:

 

Ramona...704-393-8728

Tell her John of aircraft spinner polish job- sent you.

Or ask for Car Marsee..older guy.....he used to fly a Baron 58

4256 Golf Acres Dr

Charlotte, NC 28208

 

Turned mine in 24 hrs... They do a damn good job and fast---or course $80 is very acceptable.

 


 

For touch ups of the Matterhorn White paint I have found DupliColor HA00978 to be a good CSOB match. Available at Wal-Mart, Auto Stores and Amazon. You be the judge for your color eye <vbg>

 

Here is a source for small "touch up" portions of Jet Glo aviation paint Aero Touchups:

 

 

Here is a 8/27/2009 pirep from Beech Lister JS on Aero Touchups:

 

Just in case any of you have a need for Jet Glo or Acry Glo paints for touch-up or small jobs, I highly recommend

Aero Touchups

 

I ordered a small amount of Jet Glo but somehow Acry Glo got shipped.  Also, the small can of hardener leaked during shipment.   I called figuring it was going to be a fight to get the right paint and more hardner.  Just the opposite.  The owner, Don, immediately responded by shipping me an entire new order at his expense, and insisting I keep the other stuff for spare.   He even called back days later to confirm it all had arrived and everything was OK.     This type of customer service is really rare today, especially among web based mail order businesses (in my experience).

 

Although I'm not sure his website mentions it, he was able to provide my trim colors in addition to the overall white. I have NO connection to them other than being a totally happy customer. 

 

 


 

For exhaust staining, belly cleaning and leading edge bug removal, my favorite is Simple Green Extreme. Aviation safe and Boeing approved for aluminum. When diluted 50% with water as directed it performs excellently. There are even reports of good results with an 8:1 water dilution for the super CSOB!

 

 

 

Available at Spruce and Sky Geek

 

Many folks avoid using ordinary Simple Green on their aluminum airframe! The concern seems to be the product remnants lying in the crevices and seams of our airframes. This is a major reason that the "Extreme" product (pictured above) was developed and is approved by Boeing as safe for aluminum airframes.

 


 

Other aircraft belly cleaning secrets include:

 

From Ralph R. - Try using non-abrasive hand cleaner on the belly of the airplane. I can clean my Bonanza's belly in about half an hour using half a dozen rags and a half a can of hand cleaner. Make sure that the hand cleaner does not have any pumice in it. No water needed, no solvent needed, no clean up other than disposing of the dirty rags.

 

I start with a supply of rags and apply the hand cleaner. It will emulsify the grease and oil. Use rag two to wipe it up. Repeat. Once rag #1 gets really gunked up dispose of it and use rag #2 to apply the hand cleaner. Repeat until the tail tie down is reached.

 

From Kelly M. - I discovered that WD40 works for belly cleaning. I only use WD40 for cleaning, never lubrication. Just spray on belly or rag/paper towel, wipe clean. Might take 2 passes if really gunked up. Then follow with Aviation Simple Green to remove the WD40 residue.

 


 

Another product that gets a CSOB thumbs up for exhaust staining is, believe it or not, Scrubbing Bubbles! This find is courtesy of Beech owner Tommy G.

 

Here's a Scrubbing Bubbles pirep from Beech Talker   

 

"I sprayed it on and let it sit for 15 seconds, as Tom suggested. Wiped it off and all of the baked-on crud came off with it. Couldn't be easier, cheaper or more effective."

 


 

Check out the detailing results my buddy got on his Bo when he dropped into Sporty's Flight Center in Clermont, OH (I69). He reports a price of $325 for their day staff. No water used, all dry materials.

 

 

 

 

Looks like a deal to even this CSOB can appreciate

 


 

I know you would wax your airplane more often with a Hangar Helper Buddy!

 

 

 

 

If you have a waxing/cleaning pirep on some CSOB worthy products or methods that have worked out well for you please Email me  the info.

 

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