1057 521 Corporate Center Drive
Fort Mill, SC 29715
Here's a troubling situation on the nose gear steering zerk
This zerk is a press in fitting and
proves to be a difficult area to grease with conventional grease gun
tools, so be careful, lest you snap it off and end up in this situation
and have to extract the shaft from the body of this joint.
I don't know how Shep does it, but his landing gear is worthy of a Smithsonian static display!
Up Lock Roller Bolt Replacement
Got Old Grease Stuck in Your Zerk?
The Grease Joint Rejuvenator opens clogged
grease joints and fittings effortlessly in less than a minute. Loosens dried
grease in joints with just a tap. Just fill the tool with mineral spirits,
attach it to the clogged grease fitting and tap it with a mallet. The mineral
spirits will be forced into the grease fitting under pressure to instantly
dissolve dried grease. The mineral spirits will then later completely evaporate
leaving no residue. Works great!
Costs about $56
Here is some helpful info from BT'er Curtis W.
on his grease zerk research for the Beech nose gear:
Drilled bolt, P/N 35-825005, costs something around $70 and has a drive-type
1/8" Alemite 1736 fitting, which is SAE P/N K-18-SBA. I was able to
incrementally drill the inside of the shank of this broken fitting until the
remains came loose and I could pull what was left of the fitting from the bolt.
New fitting is on order from Amazon, about $2.75. Product listing is here:
The other part is the yoke, P/N 35-825007, which I believe also originally
had a drive-type Alemite 1736. The 1/8" hole for this had wallowed out. There
are some cryptic instructions on another site that recommend, in the event that
the hole will no longer accept the 1736 fitting, threading and replacing this
fitting with an Alemite 3016, which is a 10-32 NF thread and SAE P/N H-1032.
Bushing on 35-825007 yoke must be driven partially out to clear the zerk hole
(or replace with new bushing if you have it), drill the zerk hole out with a #21
drill, thread with a 10-32 NF taper tap, and stop with the tap shallow enough to
leave some taper in the thread to hold the zerk. Deburr the bushing bore of the
yoke, press the bushing back in, and install the zerk.
Pretty happy with the result of this so far, and anxious to see how the new
1736 fitting holds in the 35-825005 bolt, which I would rather not pay $70 for.
Only practical source of a replacement 35-825007 yoke is salvage, as Beech wants
an unrealistic sum of money for a NOS part.
My 35-825006 eye is good - I mistook the yoke for that part in the parts
manual. I suspect it uses a 1736 fitting. I have also seen pictures with a
flush-type fitting installed here.
Hope this is helpful to someone. I replaced my grease gun nozzle with a worn
out one that slips off these fittings more easily - it's too much trouble and
expense to deal with breaking them off.