Because Owning And Flying Your Beechcraft Can Be Done Safely AND For Less Money!
  Static Cling Window Tint


CSOB Window Tint: Wouldn't it be great to have a really nice modern window look on your Bonanza or Baron, like your automobile, with interior temperature reducing benefits. Everyone knows we cannot use the conventional POLYESTER FILM based tint films used on glass because of their aggressive adhesives and the fact that our acrylic windows has a coefficient of expansion much different than glass.


Beech Lister Max G., blazed the trail a few years ago and spoke about a Static Cling Film he found at Wal-Mart. With no prior experience in window film he got a great result. Two years later, Max is still pleased with the static cling film he installed and look on his Bonanza. He even shared a few install tips with me and my installer buddy. Thanks Max! (PS: on 7/17/2013 Max reports 7 years of success with his cling vinyl tint film.)


Max Grogan- June 9, 2017

Rest in Peace


Being based in Dallas, Texas and formerly in Tampa, Florida (yeah, it's mega hot in both those places), I knew a little about what it felt like to get into my plane after even a little while of being on the ramp. Not fun at all! So, I finally got around to trying Max's idea and here are the results.


I selected 20% film initially and after further review at night on the ramp, the clarity is not quite what I'd like on the front windows, so I replaced the 20% film with the 35% Visible Light Transmission product. The 20% is excellent, IMHO for the center and rear windows and possibly an "eyebrow" at the top of the windshield for about 5 to 7 inches. The 35% is quite good for the front windows*, IMHO, your definition of success may vary.




Click HERE to go to my web album and click thru eight tint pictures.





The 20% film I used is made byand comes in 26" x 78" rolls at about $13/roll. Three rolls did all six windows. It also comes in an "eyebrow" roll 5" wide for $3/roll. Total time for a first timer with tint guy help was about 5 hours.


After a few weeks of 20% on the front windows, I changed to 35% film for a more comfortable night vision view out the side windows. Your preferences may vary.


As of June 2019, I have about 10 years on my "Cling-Film" on my Baron windows and can report no objectionable issues. My plane is hangared most times so if you plan to keep your plane outside in the Arizona or Florida sunshine 24/7, I can't give you any guidance on that.


However, here is the Gila Film FAQ excerpt on their film usage:


Can I use automotive window film on Plexiglas or plastic windows?

Window film adhesive should not make contact with plastic, Plexiglas, acrylic or lexan surfaces. The film's adhesive contains chemicals that could react with the organic base of a plastic surface to produce a milky, bubbly appearance. If the appearance of the plastic is not important, film can certainly be applied. Suggestion: Gila brand removable-reusable static-cling vinyl is perfect for use on flat plastic surfaces.



Here's the stuff I bought for my project:


three boxes of 20% stuff 26" x 78" each

one box of the 35%,  5" wide eyebrow film (might not be available anymore)

1 gallon distilled water

1 bottle Baby Shampoo

1 Quart pump sprayer bottle

Plastic squeegees (like hotel card keys or Bondo squeegee/scraper)



Here is the latest Gila Film in 20% from Amazon (24" x 6.5') @ $14/roll





Here is how I applied my Static Cling Tint Film:


Clean inside and outside of windows normally.


Prepare a quart of distilled water in a spray bottle with about 1/2 teaspoon of generic baby shampoo WITHOUT CONDITIONER


Squirt the outside of one window well with the solution.


Essentially you place a sheet of the film on the OUTSIDE of the window with the paper liner facing you.


Rough cut the size sheet you need.


Mark the outer edge of the window on the paper with a sharpie or ball pen.


Now cut your film and take it to the inside of the plane and squirt well the inside of the window with your solution.


Place film in place and slide around to get in position. Use credit card room key type squeegee or Bondo style squeege to remove air from center to outer edges.


Excess film can be lifted and cut with scissors without removing the entire piece of film from the window.


Film can be stretched in place via squeegee.


Here are some application tips from Beech Talker, Chester J. of the Dallas area:


* use plenty of spray solution
* it's much much easier to cut while the paper is still attached
* the film will stretch to cover your mistakes.
* buy some extra film and be willing to throw away the first window
* makes sure the windows are very clean



Update 6/16/2013: My cling film is now about five years old and still doing fine. Mind you, my plane is hangared except for occasional trips where I'm on the ramp in the sunshine.


Here is a video from Gila Films on install of the linered cling film. It can be helpful in understanding how to approach the project. From my experience, I have two cautions regarding the video:


1. DO NOT allow any razor to contact your plexi windows. Do anything you need to do to avoid this! Use a thin Sharpie to mark the window edge and scissor trim or cut in some other way without razor contacting the plexi.


2. You do not need the little extra space at the top of the window as shown in the automotive install video.




Click HERE for Locations to Buy the Axius Film (Wal-Mart, Target, AutoZone)

See the PDF Spec Sheet HERE. Scroll down to the Insta-Cling Film section.


Another Cling Film is made by and can be purchased at AutoZone. I changed my 20% film in my front windows and used the Gila 35% Cling Film. It is noticeably thinner, clearer and visibility at night is better. Gila recommends Cling Film for "plastic" windows HERE. Note their comments about conventional auto film adhesive should never be used on plastic windows.


I did engage the services of an automotive tint guy in the KATW area, Tony, who was extremely reasonable (less than $75 for the 5 hours work). After seeing the install, I could say most anyone with average mechanical ability with a razor and a squeegee could easily accomplish this project in one day or a weekend.



NEWS FLASH 16 July 2011:


Bonanza owner, Justin G. from MS just informed me of a residential cling film with very good UV & Heat reduction properties from Gila that is available at Home Depot.






Gila calls this product Energy Saving Titanium.


Could be worth checking out. It may provide better UV and heat reduction performance that the auto films and the ad copy boasts of improved clarity. It is priced at $38/roll (3' x 6.5'). Check it out HERE





Here is a picture of BeechTalker, John B.'s V35B after he spiffed up his windows with the Gila Bronze static cling film.



John reports that the 4 windows he did took him about 2 hours and $25 in film material, using the guidance in this narrative.



Here is a picture of BeechTalker, John B.'s V35B after he spiffed up his windows with the Gila Bronze static cling film.



John reports that the 4 windows he did took him about 2 hours and $25 in film material, using the guidance in this narrative.



Here is a pirep from K35 Bonanza owner Mike R., of NC (yeah it's hot and sunny here) on his cling film install:


I did mine the CSOB way, too. Made a huge difference last summer in terms of that sun coming in from the back windows. I took my sweet time and it still only took me 2-3 hours in the hangar after I had traced & cut my templates and got the stuff I needed. I redid the first window twice just to get my bearings on how much to push that water out, stretch the film to remove the distortions, etc. And I carefully sanded the edges on an old credit card with very fine sandpaper to make a sturdy but very smooth pressing surface to apply the film to the windows. No snags, worked great.




Here is a pirep from G35 Bonanza owner David L. of Texas (yeah it's hot and sunny here) on his cling film install:


Mike - I just did the static cling window tint on the Back 4 windows on my G35 and it turned out great. I took a poster board and made shape/size templates (one front & one back) from the outside and then cut the film based in the template. That allowed me to cut it with a straight edge on a table. Only a little trimming was required in the field. I also cut the film to leave a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap all around the window instead of trying to make everything tight and that worked well and looks good. The next time I do it I think I will try a squirt bottle instead of a sprayer ... Seems like the sprayer created a lot of bubbles you have to deal with. Also another tip I would put out there is to be generous in using the liquid solution. I figured out after a little while that more solution makes it easier. I will probably only leave the tint on for the summer and then re-tint again next year. Now that I have the size/shape templates, doing it again will be a snap.


David L

Dallas, TX



Here are other examples of Beechcraft cling tint prowess. This is Brandon's A36.



Brandon's pirep from BeechTalk follows:


Tried again tonight... super easy! A few tips... to reiterate DO NOT USE THE HOME FILM IN THE GREEN BOX! it is too thick and doesn't go on well, if the glass isn't flat (which it isn't) it doesn't contour at all.


First, I had to remove my rear seats anyway... do this! It took 10 extra min and the quality of the job was much higher with the room to breathe.


On the rear most windows, loosen the trim around it and cut the film 1/8" larger than that window... then push under trim (I didn't do this, and will when I replace next detail day).


On the middle windows, cut the same 1/8" too large, there is a rubber strip around mine, tucked film behind and it looks great.


Finally, the film is directional! I put one on backwards by reading the box directions, and the clarity sucks! This one will be coming off. I used the purple cling box w 20% light and think it looks great inside and out. Clarity is great if: YOU IGNORE THE BOX DIRECTIONS!!!


Here is what I did (and it isn't disimilar from others that have posted before):

clean windows

spray outside of windows and unroll film and "stick" to wet surface.

trace window with sharpie

pull off (paper still attached) and cut with sharp scissors 1/8" larger than tracing

get inside plane and ensure window clean

spray with distilled water and baby shampoo mix per CSOB site


immediately stick side paper was on onto wet window.

use an old hotel key to squeegee I sprayed front side too so it didn't snag (I used old amex...)


I got amazing clarity out of it by spraying front and slowly working them out.

Total time for 4 back windows was about 2 hours, and 4 beers... YRMV The last window took me less than 10 min once I got into a groove.


forgot to mention that I did 20% transmission and am thinking of doing 5% on the very backs when I redo them...





Here is Jerry S.'s pirep on his E33:


I spent 2 hours Saturday and 2 hours Sunday putting on the Gila cling tint as outlined on

CSOBeech. There is a learning curve. I used 5% on the back windows, 20 % on the

middle, and left the front windows stock. One thing that was an issue was the tint

shrinks when the backing paper is removed. Generally it seemed about 1/4 inch and

was always in the direction the tint was rolled up. Anyone else observe this?


All in all though even with a couple small gaps it looks good. I have not had a chance to

try it out yet but will soon when all this needed rain in Texas ends. I do wonder if other

brands shrink the same with the paper removed.


I'm also happy I don't have green windows.






This is Theodore's Baron:




Here are Theodore's comments regarding his Baron:


I love my Wal-Mart tint job. I used the static cling stuff and had a professional widow tinter do it. He did a really nice job, even around the storm window.


The cabin is noticeably cooler in the Texas sun than it was before. I do a lot of night flying and can see through it fine.



Check out BeechTalk for more pireps on this and many other Beechcraft topics!


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